Iglesia de San Luis de Los Franceses (Church of St Louis of France)
One of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Seville, San Luis de los Franceses (known simply as San Luis) is an extravagantly decorated circular church in the Macarena district.
Located in the street of the same name, the church of San Luis was completed in 1730 and is dedicated to King Louis IX of France, cousin of King Fernando III of Castile and Leon (aka San Fernando of Seville – his statue is in Plaza Nueva). It recently underwent an extensive 10-year renovation, reopening to the public in 2016; the private chapel and crypt can also be visited.
Part of a Jesuit novitiate (complex of buildings where novice monks live and study) that also included a residence and school, the church has a baroque façade of brick and stone, decorated with carving like a retablo (altarpiece), and also featuring solomonic (twisted) columns, two towers and a dome. Originally a plaza was going to be built in front of the church, so that the façade could be appreciated - like Plaza del Salvador - but this never materialised.
Inside, the deconsecrated church is a Greek cross shape with a cupola and 16 solomonic columns (so that effectively it feels circular). Your attention is immediately grabbed by four extravagantly carved and heavily gilted retablos, inset with paintings – King Louis IX’s image is topped by a huge crown. The effect is 360-degree dramatic and theatrical - typical Sevillano baroque.
The Sevillano architect Leonardo de Figueroa, who designed San Luis, was also responsible for such renowned buildings in the city as Palacio San Telmo, Hospital de la Caridad and Hospital de los Venerables, as well as the façade of El Salvador church, while the retablos are by Pedro Duque Cornejo, of the Roldan sculptor family.
San Luis was constructed on land donated by Luisa de Medina, on condition that she would be buried in the chapel, and that the church would be dedicated to her patron saint, San Luis.
After the Jesuits were finally expelled from Spain in 1835, San Luis was used as a seminary, convent, hospital for venerated priests, factory, hospice, and venue for theatrical performances. Then the church was closed for decades, only reopening after a major refurbishment in 2016.
Cupola (dome)
Don’t miss the beautiful ceiling murals in the central cupola (dome), which carry messages aimed at educating the trainee Jesuit monks, and also defending the religious order against criticisms. In addition the Jesuits were seeking to build a relationship with the Spanish monarchy – unsuccessfully, as they were expelled from Spain soon after the church was completed in 1731, and then definitively in 1835.
Use the cleverly-angled mirror to look at the dome’s decoration - infinitely more comfortable than craning your neck to look upwards. You can see St Ignatius Loyola, founder of the Jesuits, and in the theme of continuity of worship, the old is represented by the Jewish Ark of the Covenant and seven-branched candlestick, and the new by the angels.
You can also visit the private chapel, decorated with macabre reliquaries (saints’ bones) in glass boxes; Velazquez’s Adoration of the Magi was painted for this), as well as the crypt.
Opening hours
10-14h, 16-20h Tuesday to Sunday. July and August 10-14h and 18-22h
Admission
€4; €2 for under 16s, over 65s, students and disabled. Audio guide €3
Free entrance on Sunday afternoons
Guided visits: free with entrance ticket
Contact
[email protected]
Tel: 954 550 207
Location
Calle San Luis 37
