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La Pepa on tour

When I saw in the newspaper last week that a replica 17th-century galleon had arrived in the port of Sevilla, I realised it must be the same one I had seen some time previously, just before it left on a 6,000km voyage.

Galeon de Andalucia docked in Sevilla, February 2010.

The ship's original name plaque.

Looking back through my posts, it took me a while to find the one about the Galeon de Andalucia. Partly because I wasn’t looking far enough back – I couldn’t believe that it was two whole years ago. It really doesn’t seem like it was that long since I first set eyes on this magnificent wooden galleon pulled up alongside the cobbled quay of Seville’s refurbished cruise port. At the time, the queue to visit was long and my children were small, so we contended ourselves with admiring it from a distance.

Since then, the ship has been to the Middle East, Sri Lanka, the Phillippines, Shanghai, and back to Spain’s northern Atlantic coast. Now named La Pepa, as part of the celebrations of the 200th anniversary of Spain’s first democracy which will take place in March in Cadiz, it is in Seville until 29 January – this Sunday.

This time, we went aboard and explored the cabins, the Sala del Almirante and the below decks sections too. There were information plaques about the Cadiz of 1812 – its strategic importance as a trading port, as a location for Las Cortes (the parliament-in-exile), and its cosmpolitan and open nature, thanks to visitors from all over the world and its inhabitants’ enthusiasm for learning new languages.

You can see the ship's original name engraved on its bell, as well as where it was built: Punta Umbria, in Huelva.

When it leaves Seville, the sloop will head for Cadiz, although the crew told me there’s a possibility that it will visit Malaga too, if not in February, then after the La Pepa main ceremony on 19 March. But the ship’s next confirmed voyage is to the Levantine coast of Spain: Alicante, Valencia and up to Barcelona.

You can visit the ship, which is moored at the Muelle de las Delicias (behind the Pabellon de Argentina on Avenida de las Palmeras, opposite the Parque Maria Luisa) from 3pm-6pm tomorrow and 10am-6pm on Saturday and Sunday. Entrance is free. For more information about Galeon La Pepa’s next planned ports of call, check the Fundacion Nao Victoria website.

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UNESCO’s verdict on the Torre Pelli: STOP NOW!

In a recent newspaper poll, 25% of people wanted construction of the Torre Pelli to be halted (it currently has 15 storeys out of the planned 40, and measures around 60 metres). However a massive 62% preferred that the project continue as planned.

This highly controversial building in Seville, designed by the Argentinian architect Cesar Pelli, is causing waves – of the tsunami type – in Seville’s town hall, at the bank which is behind the project, Cajasol, and at UNESCO, which is threatening to withdraw the city’s World Heritage Status if the tower reaches its intended height.

Last week UNESCO’s report, after two inspectors visited the city on 7-9 November last year, on the impact of the tower on Seville’s medieval city centre – its World Heritage site consists of a “monumental complex” of three buildings: the cathedral, the Alcazar and the Archivo de Indias – stated that the skyscraper would have an “excessive and undoubtedly negative impact” on Seville’s skyline. It will “end the Giralda tower’s pre-eminence in the urban landscape”. The Giralda measures 97 metres, to the Torre Pelli’s 178 metres, making it the tallest building in Andalucia. The UNESCO Committee requested that authorities “stop the construction and revise the project”, specifically by reducing the height of the tower, in order to avoid any possible adverse impact on the “nearby historic surroundings”.

Basically, if the tower gets any higher, Seville will most likely lose its WH status, without even going on the Danger list first.

Now the Ayuntamiento, led by PP Mayor Juan Ignacio Zoido, has said that it wants to negotiate with Cajasol – on Friday it “strongly urged” them to stop the construction and discuss an agreement for the future of the project, threatening to withdraw its planning licence. The bank, however, wants the Town Hall, together with the Ministry of Culture, to help it defend the tower against UNESCO.

If the tower continues according to the original plan, UNESCO can either rescind Sevilla’s WH Status at its next meeting (in June, in St Petersburg), or put it on the Danger list, for future consideration as the tower continues. The Danger List features 35 sites, of which none are in Europe.

It’s not surprising that most people would prefer to see the tower continue until it reaches its originally planned height. With the economic situation being as it currently is, the choice between your city losing a building project which will put it on the world stage of stunning architectural landmarks, give a modern edge, draw more visitors and, crucially, which is providing many people with employment; and your skyline not looking quite as nice as it did before, it’s a no-brainer. Mortgage over aesthetics, every time.

If things were looking brighter job-wise, the dilemma might get a different reaction and there might be more sympathetic ears lent to the arguments in favour of preserving the integrity of Seville’s skyline, dominated by its medieval tower. But the idea of removing an important source of jobs, and therefore income, from a shaky employment market – not to mention all the new jobs which the finished building with provide – is just not sensible.

The Torre Pelli as seen from the Torre de la Navigacion, an ex-Expo 92 tower nearby.

It’s not so cut and dried, however, for the local administration. The Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) and Alcalde (Mayor) are in a sticky situation – obey UNESCO, destroy jobs and pay a whacking compensation to Cajasol (200 million euros), or support the integrity of the building project and allow it to be completed?

If they ignore UNESCO’s very clear warning (which was also reiterated in a letter from UNESCO’s director to Spain’s UNESCO ambassador) to stop the construction, and modify the building’s height, they will be sticking two fingers up at this highly influential international body, and of course will also lose the related assistance and funding which come with WH Status.

They will also, for some, become local heroes, standing up to outside forces who are trying to tell them what to do, never popular in a country which experienced 40 years of fascist dictatorship, and is having to take orders from the European Union about its financial affairs. And they will win a powerful ally in Cajasol.

On the flipside, they will arouse the ire of conservationists and historians who feel that the tower will compromise the integrity of the city, eclipsing the other tower which has already been Seville’s most notable landmark for the past millennium.

Today discussion will take place over a possible compromise. My money is on Cajasol being left out in the cold, and the Ayuntamiento towing the line – but will Cajasol be willing to reach a compromise on the height of the tower? And what will the architect have to say about his design being changed?

Public opinion has moved firmly behind the Torre Pelli, so Zoido may have the first big fight on his hands since he took over as Mayor. It could get messy – watch out.

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Casa de Alba puts on a historic show

Titian's painting of the Gran Duque de Alba, who started the Casa De Alba's art collection, now one of the most important private collections in the world.

The Casa de Alba – whose head, the redoubtable Cayetana, 18th Duquesa de Alba, recently wed for the third time in her Seville palace – has one of the most important private art collections in the world.

Amassed over the centuries, starting in the 16th, it consists of a staggering 50,000 works, valued at 600 million euros – though some pieces are priceless. The Casa de Alba collection, largely housed in the Palacio de Liria, the Duquesa’s Madrid residence, includes works by some of the most significant and influential painters in history, stretching from Renaissance masters to French Impressionsists. Names include Titian, Rubens, Rapahel and Rembrandt, as well as Spanish greats Goya, Murillo, Zubaran and El Greco.

Later additions included works by English painters Reynolds and Romney. The current Duquesa made her own contribution, adding pieces by 20th-century artists such as Renoir, Picasso, Dali, Miro and Chagall, while Zuloaga painted a portrait of Cayetana as a little girl on her pony.

Documents include the first bible translated into Spanish, the Biblia de Alba, which dates from 1433, 21 documents signed by Christopher Columbus, and a first edition of Don Quijote, as well as 30,000 other books.

La Duquesa Cayetana con vestido blanco, by Goya.

The Duquesa’s antedecent, the 13th Duchess, was famously painted by her friend Goya, and this portrait is well-known to be one of Cayetana’s favourite artworks.

Now it has been announced that a selection of pieces from this priceless collection is going on show to the public, in Madrid at the end of the year. No, it’s not Andalucia, but it’s a big enough deal to stray outside our usual geographic confines. And for someone who hasn’t been to Madrid in 15 years (big cities + small children = no thanks), it might even be enough to get me and my brood onto the AVE and up to the capital.

The pieces which will go on display include paintings, as well as documents and sculptures which are currently in the Palacio de Liria, her Madrid residence, where the Duquesa lived as a girl. One of the best things about watching the TV miniseries of her life was seeing the inside of this magnificent building – the programme was actually filmed in the palace, thanks to the Duquesa granting permission.

This year the Palace will also be hired out for private events – even the aristocracy are feeling the pinch. The Palacio de Liria was bombed during the Civil War, and almost entirely destroyed – thankfully, the art was safely stored in various locations: in the basement, in bank vaults and in the British Embassy. (During this time, Cayetana was in London with her father, who was Spanish ambassador.) In the 1940s and 50s Cayetana, then married and with her own children, oversaw the reconstruction of her home.

The last time some of these works were on show to the public was the exhibition in 2010, at Seville’s Museo de Bellas artes. Now we will be able to see an even more extensive selection from the five centuries of the finest art and historic documents as garnered by the Casa de Alba. A fantastic opportunity, and one I won’t be missing.

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The lions get their roar back

One of the most famous parts of the Alhambra, the Patio de los Leones, has finally got its central feature back in full working order after ten years.

The 14th-century sculpture in its centre, of 12 white marble lions holding a duodecagonal (12-sided) basin, was returned to its rightful spot last month. Now, at the weekend, its fountain was turned on for trials, so that the marble lions were able to resume spouting water as they have done for 700 years. The fountain is considered one of the one most important examples of Muslim architecture, and the return of this much-loved attraction of Granada’s magnificent palace has been long awaited and anticipated.

Four white marble channels carried the water from the fountain to various points around the patio; flowing water, fountains and pools were important aesthetic and spiritual features of Moorish gardens and palaces. These channels have been dry for a decade – the first lion (number 4) was removed back in 2002.

The fountain as seen on a visit in 2006, with lion number 4 missing.

So if you’ve visited the Alhambra in the past five years, since 2007, they were not the original lions you saw, but replicas.

And soon – hopefully in spring – when work on the floor of the patio is completely finished (marble from the same quarry where the original material was mined – Macael in Almeria – is being used), visitors will be able to get closer than ever to these wonderful beasts – although not touch them; traditionally, children used to sit on the lions to have their photo taken.

In a few months, you'll be able to get close up to the famous lions.

When this is possible, you will be able to see that each lion’s face is different, thanks to the two-million-euro three-year restoration process, which also mended cracks and marks from the water. Since 2010, the lions have been on display in the Palacio Carlos V, while they waited for their home to be finished.

Let’s hope that these tests are successful, and the lions will, once more, be able to keep up their gentle flow.

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Jamon al chino? Que no!

If you live here in Spain, you’ll be used to seeing Chinese shops in every town. They are stacked high with ridiculously cheap goods, from clothes to toys to garden furniture and household crockery. Much of it is poor quality – I call it “CCC” – cheap crap from China. A high percentage of the toys are plastic, and break or fall apart after a few uses, especially when being manhandled by small, not-very-gentle kids like mine. I have more or less banned them from the house.

The Chinese are very good at imitating Western goods – some of their cars look very stylish. And we all know about the knock-off designer bags, belts and watches sold on street corners in every city of the world – Prada, Hermes, Gucci, Tag Heuer…

But now, a new product, made in China but based on a Spanish original, has had its marca (brand) removed, after the Spanish Embassy’s Economic and Commercial Office in China spotted the (ab)use of an official registered name. Here’s a clue.

A porker destined for your plate (though not from Jabugo).

Two Chinese businessmen had applied to have the marcas “Jabugo” and “Hamen Jabugo” registered, in 2006 and 2007; they were accepted in 2009.

Jabugo is world-renowned top-quality jamon serrano (air-dried mountain ham) from this Huelva town, which is included in the Denominacion de Origen (DO) Jamon de Huelva.

The DO’s Regulatory Council wrote to the Office of Brands of China’s Industry and Business Department, to explain its condemnation of the two “Jabugo” brands, and requesting the removal of them. Yesterday it was announced by a delighted Spanish press (especially here in Andalucia) that the Chinese had accepted the Onubenses’ complaint.

It’s an interesting case, which proves that while, with many products, the Chinese can’t be beaten for their monumental economies of scale, some traditional, geographically-specific food cannot be imitated or reproduced in another country, however sophisticated the techniques employed.

It also represents an important victory by a region of Andalucia, not by any means a world economic power, against exactly that. It must be a sweet victory for the people of Jabugo, and the Huelvan DO. And it’s a lesson to anyone who wants to try and imitate a Spanish one-off: don’t take our name in vain.

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Posted in Business, Food, gastronomy | 2 Comments »

Nine new natural monuments for Andalucia

The Duna de Bolonia (Cadiz) is a protected natural monument.

At the end of last year, the Andalucian government named nine new natural monuments, including five in Malaga province. This means that these beauty spots – such as peñas (hills), fuentes, meandros and riberas (sources, loops, and banks, of rivers), tajos (cliffs), and cuevas (caves) – are formally recognised and protected, offering an official new attraction, and boosting tourism for each local area.

Those in Malaga are: Tajos del Alcazar in Alcaucin; popular caving destination Cueva del Gato in Benaojan; the Cuenca del Rio Turon viewpoint in El Burgo; the source of the River Genal in Igualeja; and the source of the River Guadalhorce (Fuente de los Cien Caños) in Villanueva del Trabuco.

As well as the monuments in Malaga, four other provinces have each received the classification for a situation: La Peña de Arcos de la Frontera (Cadiz), El Meandro del Guadalquivir in Montoro (Cordoba), Los Tajos de Alhama de Granada and la Ribera del Guadaira, in Alcala de Guadaira (Sevilla).

There are now a total of 49 natural monuments in Andalucia.

This gives extra protection for areas or elements which also include dunas (dunes), islotes (small islands), centuries-old trees, and rock formations.

To receive the classification the monument must fulfil the following criteria: be well-conserved, accessible to the public, recognized by citizens and have agents jointly responsible for protecting it.

The sites are chosen taking into account the rulings of the Environment Department, studies by Andalucian universities, and in consultation with local groups and associations.

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Posted in family, History, Nature, Our Environment, Tourism, Travel Andalucia | No Comments »

Here come the Reyes….

The Cartera Real, precursor to the Reyes Magos, in their donkey-drawn carriage.

At this very moment, small children all over Spain are excitedly awaiting a glimpse of the Reyes Magos, the Three Kings (or Wise Men) who, according to Spanish tradition, bring children’s presents tonight.

Depending on the size of each town hall’s budget (deficit), the Reyes arrived in stately fashion on camels, elephants, or, in the case of our local village, a float pulled by a tractor. Each one has his own band of followers.

This cabalgata (procession) is planned over many months, with elaborate decorations and popular themes, based on tales or cartoon characters. The children on the floats are chosen and have to make their own costumes, designed around the theme.

The Reyes and their helpers throw sweets and small presents (the 0.50 euro from the chino type), and most people take along plastic bags to catch their spoils as they fly through the air. The mess left afterwards, of sweet wrappers, plastic packets etc is shocking (litter bins are anathema to the Spanish), although most ayuntamientos are pretty swift in removing it.

We had a preview of the whole excitement a few days ago, when the Cartera Real came to another town nearby, to collect the children’s letters with reports on their behaviour over the past year (have you been naughty or nice?) and their present requests.

Our cabalgata was setting out at 4.30, so we’d better head off now… Happy Reyes!

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2012: the year of Cadiz, starting with La Pepa, El Niño and Camus

The atmospheric seafront city of Cadiz, home of Spain's first constitution, drawn up in 1812: La Pepa.

So we’re now a couple of days into 2012. The extended break struggles on to Reyes later this week.

The news is full of pay cuts, taxes and freezes, so I thought it might be more positive to focus on one of 2012’s important anniversaries here in Spain: La Pepa.

On 19 March 1812, Spain’s first-ever constitution was written in Cadiz, as Napeoleon’s troops besieged the city. This highly significant bicentenary – el Bicentenario de la Constitucion de Cadiz, to give it its full name – is being celebrated with a year of special events and exhibitions. It takes its name from 19 March being the day of San Jose – nickname, Pepe.

On 6 January, this Friday, the El Niño lottery is being drawn at the Gran Teatro de Falla in Cadiz – the first time it has ever been held outside Madrid, which gives you an idea of how important this anniversary is. The reason is that the Loteria Nacional is also celebrating its 200 years, having been created by the Cadiz Courts to increase the Public Treasury’s income without having to resort to raising taxes (although there are those who refer to the lottery as a “tax on the stupid”, because so many are willing to spend money on something they are extremely unlikely to profit from. This historic lottery draw will be prefaced by a concert from the Seville Royal Symphonic Orchestra.

Cadiz's mighty cathedral and seafront.

Then, on 10 January, the Centro Andaluz de Teatro Hill perform Camus’ play Estado de Sitio (State of Being), which is about a mythical Cadiz which is fighting against tyranny, and the triumph of freedom and hope. It was first performed by the famous mime Marcel Marceau.

These are just the start of the full and varied programme of cultural, social and political events planned for the year of commemorative celebrations. So you’ll be reading and hearing a lot more about La Pepa, both here and elsewhere.

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Posted in Culture and Customs, History | 3 Comments »

Happy New Year!

I hope you are all having/have had a wonderful Christmas with your friends and family, full of good cheer, good food and plenty of liquid refreshment (mine was).

Tomorrow is Nochevieja (Old night), New Year’s Eve, when Spanish families get together for a big feast, rounded off on the stroke of midnight by eating 12 grapes as tradition dictates.

Whether you’re in Spain, or in your expat “home”, and however you are going to celebrate, I wish you a very happy 2012, hopefully with a sunnier outlook.

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A (light-hearted) look back at 2011

As this is my last proper blog post of 2011 – I will be wishing you a happy new year next week, but other than that I get a (well-earned) break between Christmas and New Year – I thought it would be a good chance to take a look back at some of the interesting stories (and blog posts) about Andalucia from this year.

Baroness Thyssen Bornemisza at the opening of her new eponymous museum in Malaga, with the city's mayor.

March 2011: Tita Cervera’s gift to Malaga, museum capital of Andalucia

In March, Malaga saw the opening of a major new art attraction: the Carmen Thyssen Museum. This showcases Spanish art from the famous collector’s personal collection, mostly dating from the 19th century, and mostly scenes of Andalucia’s cities and countryside.

Andalucia.com founder and head honcho, Chris Chaplow, gives Prince Charles the lowdown on the Andalucian business scene...

...while Camilla talks to the bailaora, as she admires the shawl she was given as a present after the flamenco perforance.

April 2011: Charles and Camilla

In April, the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall came to Seville for a brief visit – business and pleasure – as part of a tour of southern Europe and north Africa. The founder, owner and MD of andalucia.com, as a prominent Andalucian businessman, was naturally invited to the reception at the Alcazar, while yours truly went to the ladies’ event – a flamenco performance at the Museo de Baile Flamenco, as requested by Camilla (the 21st-century equivalent of the ladies adjourning to the drawing room after dinner to play bridge and gossip, while the men stay to smoke cigars, drink port and talk business).

The 120-million-euro (gulp) Metropol Parasol, Seville's newest attraction. Walk the elevated pasarela for the best rooftop-and-beyond views.

April 2011: Modern architecture comes to Seville

Also in April – spring is always crazy-busy in the Andalucian capital – the massively over-budget and behind-schedule Metropol Parasol project was finally ready (well, officially inaugurated – the museum and walkway didn’t open till May). These six gigantic shades now boast a variety of restaurants and shops – including a tapas bar and a frozen yoghurt place on the ground floor, as well as a new-style self-service eaterie on the top deck, offering everything from ham and fritos to cocktails – which opened just a week or so ago. It was also the home to Seville’s outpost of the Spanish “Democracy Now!” movement, which subsequently spread all around the world, including OWS (Occupy Wall Street) in New York.

June 2011: Solar power in the dark

On the eco front, June saw the inauguration of the first solar power plant which can produce power at night. The Gemasolar plant, in Fuentes de Andalucia (Seville), made news around the world for its revolutionary molten-salt system. Nothing makes me happier than reading about positive new – and, even better, cutting-edge technology – about Andalucia, in these challenging times.

The town of Juzcar likes its new Greek-island-turquoise look so much, it's sticking with it - and the added income it brings in.

June 2011: How one village in Malaga beat the recession: by going – and staying – blue

Also in June, the town of Juzcar in Malaga province was chosen by Sony Pictures to be paid to paint all its houses blue for the filming of The Smurfs movie, starring Salma Hayek, in June. But after seeing an exponential rise in tourism – from 300 to 80,000 – last week the 221 residents voted not to have their houses returned to their customary white. A smurf market has been set up in the village and smurf-themed weddings now take place. An unexpected way to boost one town’s economy – and put a smile on the faces of its residents, and visitors.

Megalomanic Arabic dictator hijacks Seville's Plaza de Armas with sinister motives (to be seen on screen shortly ).

September 2011: Ali G turns Seville into his latest movie character’s kingdom

In September Plaza de Armas became Fedijah, the country of The Dictator, Sacha Baron-Cohen’s latest fictional film protagonist. With gold Hummers, numerous beturbaned extras and national symbols appearing on vehicles, uniforms, gates and flags, one of Seville’s most famous landmarks, previously used in Star Wars: The Phantom Menace, took on a new identity.

The newly-weds, Alfonso and Cayetana, the Duque and Duquesa de Alba, greet their fans outside her palace in Seville.

October 2011: Wedding fever hits Seville

The Duquesa de Alba married her “toyboy” at her Seville palace in October, capturing the nation’s hearts as she overcome fierce opposition from her family to the match, but not long after fell and hurt her back. Now she’s on the mend, and appeared with none other than Tom Cruise at the Spanish launch of his latest MI movie in Madrid.

Creamfields in 2012, again held in Jerez, will be even bigger and better.

And to look forward to in 2012…

Creamfields Andalucia 2012′s dates have just been announced: it will take place on 10-11 August; tickets went on sale today. Next year’s event, held at the Circuito de Velocidad in Jerez de la Frontera, promises to have more extensive, and better maintained, facilities, such as showers, toilets and mobile phone charging, as well as the usual stellar line-up of international dance acts – past events have featured the likes of Massive Attack, The Prodigy, The Chemical Brothers, Saint Etienne, Fatboy Slim, Pet Shop Boys, Orbital and Faithless.

And I’m sure there will be plenty of other exciting events to enjoy next year. In the meantime, I would like to wish you a very Merry Christmas – eat, drink, relax and enjoy the time with your family, especially if you’re an expat returning home at this special time of year to see your loved ones, like me. ¡Feliz Navidad!

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